Filed under: Edinburgh
Our modus operandi in Edinburgh is that I walk to town and the girls take a bus. These means I get in extra steps and they can take longer getting ready. (Walked 18 miles yesterday, thanks for asking!) Yesterday, I headed down to the end of the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building because we had big plans to climb Arthur’s Seat. (The Royal Mile starts at the Castle.) Because I had some extra time, I stopped in to see Parliament. It’s a modern building, about 20 years old, that fits in well with the ancient architecture around it. It has an open feel. Guests are welcome. Parliament wasn’t in session, but I got to go in and look around. It feels like there is much more access than in Minnesota. (Not that I don’t love the MN Capitol.) Also – get a glimpse of the books they sell in the bookshop. way to be inclusive and welcoming to all!
The girls met me. Three of us stared the journey up Arthur’s Seat. It is an ancient volcano, in the Holyrood Park and part of the 7 hills around Edinburgh – and it’s a possible location of Camelot, some folks think. Kate really enjoyed climbing the hill back in 2010; in fact I wouldn’t underestimate the impact of that climb on our return trip now. We started near the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building. It’s a mile and a half up; and same down, unless you miss-step. The walk feels very up and down. Kate and I made it to the top! I was proud of us. We were certainly in the minority wearing dresses on the climb and Kate wins an award for wearing heels. The views are spectacular and I think the air is better up there.
We headed to the Fringe after a little break. The girls went to see a few shows. I mostly walked around and visited different pubs and locations. It’s fun to see a city with so much activity. Some day I’m going to find a to be here for the whole month of August.
Filed under: Edinburgh
Yesterday the taxi picked us up at 4am to get to the airport to fly to Edinburgh, or actually that was yesterday’s yesterday – we’re re-jetlagged but it was worth it. Edinburgh is amazing. It is my favorite city and to be here for the Fringe fest has been amazing. We got to the AirBnB about 9am (thank god for early check in!) and all fell apart in one way or another. But by noon we were raring to go. I walked into town and the girls tool the bus. It’s probably easiest to spilt the post into Edinburgh usual awesomeness and Fringe-related fun.
Edinburgh being Edinburgh
Edinburgh is built on seven hills. The castle stands on one and looms over much of the city. It is so easy to see how Harry Potter was written here. The castle looks and feels amazing. And there’s an “upstairs downstairs” feeling to the city, especially near the castle. The downstairs area is built into the hill of the castle. It feels super cool and haunted and timeless. Away from the castle is almost feels like an ivory town sort of situation, but near the castle it is seedier and more palpable.
We walked down the Royal Mile. It’s old and preserved. No murals painted here. So many churches and graveyards. (We saw the grave of Adam Smith.) So much stained glass and in-church tombs, which I love. We stopped in St Gile’s Cathedral, Greyfriars with the memorial to the dog and the Witchcraft Museum. You can see Kate posing with Isobel Cowdie, the queen of Scottish Witches (vintage 1662).
Kate and I saw two Fringe performances. Miles and Dan Just Might Break a World Record Tonight was a fun collection of sketches. It was fast paced and funny. And we saw a preview of several shows at the Three Sisters. We’re going to have to see if the host has a Titanic show in the festival, Aine would love it. The Fringe is amazing. We haven’t planned anything and sadly the one show that caught my eye (I was in a Sitcom with Eden She aka Sue Heck) is sold out for the nights were here. We might see if there’s anything last minute available. Or we might see if there are other performances we’d plan around. Or we’ll keep it to the Free and cheap Fringe shows that you can usually walk in and you walk by. It is fun to see the artists out touting for their own acts. Some folks clearly enjoy that more than others.
Finally the amazing parade we cam across on the way to the bus home. It is a parade from the Tattoo, which is a huge annual celebration of the military.
Filed under: Dublin
Dun Laoghaire is a port town and 15 miles south of Dublin. When we lived near here when the girls were young; we lived closer to Dun Laoghaire to Dublin City Center. So, in many ways, visiting Dun Laoghaire is more like a trip back to my second home that going to Dublin. Aine and I went to walk down the pier. It was a terrible day for a walk down the pier. There was a on-and-off heavy mist and the wind could have set a small dog flying. But that strong wind will clear the cobwebs right out of your brain. I kind of loved it. Then while Aine had a moment of peace I checked out the Maritime Museum. They have an amazing window/light from a lighthouse that is fairly amazing!
We took the DART there, walked the pier and then came home. Initially we had plans to visit other hot spots, such as the People’s Park but we decided to kowtow to the weather. We strolled in the rain and I realized, I could live here again.
At night I took a stroll by myself. I saw some prescient street art and went into Whelan’s for a pint. Now we’re waiting for a 4am uber for the next adventure…
Filed under: Dublin
Today was like a mom dream vacation. Spent the morning with Kate while Aine slept. Spent the afternoon with Aine while Kate met up with a friend. Weather was spectacular until it wasn’t. We all went to the Sinead O’Connor at the Phoenix Park and quickly ended up at a pub with Irish music. Now if only I had my Lily to hit the nightlife with me to hit the late-night bars! We miss her for more than that – but she has things to do in Montreal. I can only download the day in snapshots and not in order – no transitions today.
Sinead O’Connor Memorial turns into Irish Pub Music
We went to Phoenix Park with high expectations for the Sinead O’Connor memorial after 7pm. We weren’t there long. Clearly folks had put some work into it. We saw two poets who were good but we didn’t understand the connection to Sinead, which clearly was at least half our problem but because we remember when Prince died in Minneapolis, we expect the same reception. It’s early days so it may happen and in the meantime the ground level adoration is admirable but we weren’t feeling it. (Also speaks volumes to the messages Sinead tried to relay!) So. two tired girls and I ended up at a bar on the quays playing very loud Irish music but serving food. Loud Irish music was exactly what one girl wanted – apparently. The band played Weela Weela Wayla and both girls were over the moon. Kate went so far to request a song (Ragland Road) in part I think to spite the New Jersey folks who requested Danny Boy. By the time we left it was pouring rain. I offered to call the Uber but we walked. I’m soaking wet typing this – but basking the glow of a good day.
Bog Bodies
Kate and I visited the bog bodies of Ireland; the girls and I have always enjoyed the creepy and cool on our adventures. It’s funny to see how creepy impacts a 20-something versus an 8-year-old, but I still got Kate to compare bog hand to her hand. A bog body is human remains that have mummified in a bog. The remains in Ireland date back to 400 BC to 400 AD – or I here up to 2000 years ago! They are still being found today – well by today I mean 2003, but in the scope of history, that is a blip. Going by the stories, it seems like some people may have fallen into the bogs, while bog dumping was also the last part of a sacrificial murder of some sort. It is amazing to see the detail that is preserved. (Years ago, we went to the Bog of Allen. Another creepy but cool and very messy. It’s the closest thing to quicksand I ever want to experience.
Trinity, Art and Animals
Aine and I had a leisurely vacation day after she tromped all over town yesterday. We walked through Trinity College, a well-worn route to the bus stop back in the day. We tried to sneak into the library, no luck. But we walked through the cricket fields, which brought back memories. We popped out by the National Gallery, which gave us an excuse to go through for a second visit. (We spent a lot of time there when they were kids.) Next we went to the “dead animal zoon” aka Natural History Museum. A highlight for me was the basking shark. I have been obsessed with basking sharks since I saw a TEDx talk about them in 2010.
Buskers and Street Art
We spent a lot of time walking today. Saw some super fun street art, including a mural of Sinead O’Connor being painted. Very touching.
Finally, we saw some great busking on Grafton Street. Just another day in Dublin.
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