Yesterday, I had one last walk around Galway, visited Kate at work and headed on the bus to Dublin.
Then I spent the day walking through Dublin. Now I’m at the airport waiting for my plane. (Not my happy place.) I have fired that since Oct 31, I have walked more than 131 miles, according to Fitbit, which I learned doesn’t work as well in Dublin. According to Google Fit, I walked a lot more.
- St Ann’s – where Bram Stoker was married
- Phil Lynott outside of Bruxelles
Filed under: Galway
You know god loves us best when we have perfect weather on an 8-hour tour around the west of Ireland. It rained just enough to give us a few rainbows and only when we were on the bus or inside. The funny thing is, we intended to do a different tour but the bus was too full for our taste, so we took a gamble.
We left Galway around 10am. The bus driver shares info the tour most of the way, but in a way where you can tune in and tune out. We stopped at a few places before the mainliner – the Cliffs of Moher. First stop was Dunguaire Castle. One of several castle/castle ruins we saw on our trip. I’ve grouped them all together. The buildings are amazing. We also saw some thatched cottages. I’m grouping them here too and sharing a fun etymology lesson. The term “raining cats and dogs” comes from cats and dogs slipping off the thatched roofs in the rain. (That theory is unsubstantiated but is the best one I’ve heard.)
We drove through the Burren, which is an interesting patch of land. It’s half rock and half rough grass. Apparently, it’s the limestone in the rain that helps form the unique structure. (Or that’s what I heard when I tuned in.) Absolute bonus was a stop at a dolmen. A dolmen is a prehistoric tomb. We actually lived near to one in Dublin years ago, but it was much smaller. It looks like a large stone table of some sort. We learned that the top slab of the one we saw was 6 thousands tons when it was built. It’s a mazing to think about how (and why!) people who build them back in the day.
We drove by Lisdoonvarna, home to a famous one-month match making festival. (September if you want to mark your calendars.) We had lunch in Doolin. Sadly no music at the pub. Doolin is famous for traditional music sessions.
We got to the Cliffs after lunch. They are stunning. We went when the girls were young and I had terrible memories of there being no safety features whatsoever on top of a stone cliff 200+ meters over the sea for something like 5 miles. It feels much safer now. I didn’t have to hold Kate back at all. We had 90 minutes to walk around and we used up pretty much all of that time walking the path we could. We didn’t see a puffin, which was a great disappointment but it’s really the wrong season. Another memory from our trip when they kids were little was midges – everywhere. Midges flying around blocking the sun! But we didn’t have that either.
A bonus was that we could see Lahinch from the Cliffs, which brough back great memories from a vacation there with Grandma and Grandpa when the girls were little.
We drove home along the Wild Atlantic Way. We stopped in a pub for a drink. (Or a bonus walk for some of us.) And then a peaceful drive.
Kate and I had a really nice dinner then she went off to get ready for her week and I went to an open mic night at Roisin Dubh. It was fun to hear a lot of local musicians at once and to see the community vibe that always supports a good local music scene. As a bonus, The Fynches were playing in the main room and I got to see them too.
(The videos are slowing uploading while I’m on the bus.)
Filed under: Galway
I know the streets of Galway about as well as anyone now. I’ve walk 10+ miles a day while here. Now that doesn’t mean I know the people, history or culture but I know how to get from A to B. I started the cloudy day with lunch with Kate and then a wake down the river and back to the sea. It really is nice to breathe in the sea air and focus on the steps.
I checked out the regular Saturday market as well as the Christmas market.
Then Kate and I met up for a walk around the city and have a very delicious meal at Dela.
Filed under: Galway
Woke up to lots of rain but as soon as I saw a glimmer of sunshine I was out walking. I found myself visiting a cemetery. There was an amazing view of the bay there.
I stopped into the Galway City Museum. I love to see the Galway hanging from the ceiling. I love the views from the top floor.
Then I walked about the bay. The sun was starting to shine, and I even got a glimpse of a rainbow. I walked out the lighthouse. It was windy but nice.
And when I got back to the hotel, they had turned on the Christmas lights. There will be a Christmas market right in front of the hotel. At night, I met up with Kate and her work crew. They were very funny. They seemed very nice and they all seem to like each other, which is nice.
Filed under: Galway
Yesterday I walked about 17 miles around Galway. I started with a walk to Menlo Castle on the River Corrib. It’s nice (and healthy) walk through University College Galway. The campus is an interesting mix of old and new building. It reminds me of University College Dublin in that way.
On the way back, I popped into the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St Nicholas. It’s a big church and a working church. Lots of hustle and bustle, even on a weekday morning. The art is gorgeous. I really liked the very modern painting of the Nativity.
I got to see the “other” jewelry store where Kate works. It’s in a shopping center near my hotel. Sounds like the shopping center shop does a great business around Christmas and near first communions while the other does well during the tourist season.
In the afternoon, I walked down the Salthill Promenade.
At night Kate and I went to see storytelling at the Crant Bar with Rab Fulton, who also has a podcast of storytelling.
And at night, I found a little music at the King’s Head.
Filed under: Galway
Nothing more peaceful than a 2+ hour bus ride from Dublin to Galway. Guaranteed to have plenty of music from the 1980s on the radio. It’s warm and cozy. And you can watch the sheep and (as a friend used to say) the “natural barriers” (aka fences) roll by. Thanks to the beauty of technology and some memory of the last time I was here, I got to my hotel, which is very central and will be smack dab in the middle of the Christmas fair when it opens, which I think it this weekend.
But the highlight is seeing Kate’s life here. She’s been here two years now. There have been high and low points, of course, but she seems to be in a great place now. She works at a jewelry store. The people seem very nice and it allows here some flexibility and have been a great way to meet folks and see famous folks as they walk by or come in. Apparently, President-Elect Catherine Connolly was a regular passer-by.
I also visited her flat. It’s so central. She shares with a roommate. The place is very artistic but also, big and very nice. In her living room, I spied a poster from her monthly event, a local drink and draw. Each month, she hosts an art night at the Blue Note. She brings some arti supplies, a few lessons (worksheet-style) and the encouragement. They have been very popular.
We had a lovely dinner of tapas at a place called Sangria and walked around town. Everyone knows Kate. Hellos from folks playing music, at the pubs and sitting on the street corner. We saw some much and mostly I took pictures of the street art.
Dun Laoghaire is on the South Side of the Dublin Bay. When the girls were young we lived not too far from there. We often walked the Dun Laoghaire pier looking for seals and porpoises. SO that’s what Kate and I did today. There’s not much to tell because it’s just very nostalgic for us. BUT we did see a seal! You can never be sure you will. On a sunny day you might see them sun bathing but today was overcast, but warm (60 degrees maybe), not rainy and very windy. Somehow Kate looks better in the wind than I do. Of course, she looked better in the calm too.
There is something very refreshing in smelling the sea air and have the wind pull all the cobwebs out of your brain. I could see how people brought up near a coast feel about it. Also fun to take the train (DART) from the city center to Dun Laoghaire. The view of the Dublin Bay is always calming and humbling.
In the evening, Kate headed to Galway, I’ll be meeting her there soon. So I went around and took some pictures and collected a few extra miles of steps. I’ll share my favorite street art pictures – from the week so far.
Filed under: Dublin
After three solid days of mom-daughter time, Kate took a break Monday morning, which meant I went to Phoenix Park to see the deer. There’s a wild herd of deer that hang out in a very large park. There’s never a guarantee that you’ll see them. It’s a couple miles to the park and you could be walking a couple miles more looking for them. It’s not an outing for everyone. I was just about to give up the search when I saw them. They are wild but tame. So, I was able to get pretty close to them. They have amazing antlers and it’s just such a rare treat to catch them.
Even if I hadn’t seen them, I saw plenty on the way to the park and back. I got pictures of St Patrick’s Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, the house where I lived one summer behind St Audeon’s, Collins Barracks (sadly the museum was closed but the outside is cool too), the Anna Livia statue (aka Floozy in the Jacuzzi) – please note life imitating art with the man asleep on the bench behind her and finally the Guinness factory. (Smells like the Malt-Meal Cereal factory in Owatonna.)
- St Patrick’s
- Christ Church
- Old house
- Collin’s Barracks
- Collin’s Barracks
- Anna Livia
- Guinness
Then I met Kate for lunch and we went on more adventures. We stopped by the National Museum to see the bog bodies. These are bodies of people who were often brutally killed and then thrown into a bog, where their bodies are weirdly preserved. It was a favorite creepy but cool activity when the girls were young.
Next was a quick stop at the National Library for the WB Yeats exhibit. Always interesting to re-read Yeats and it’s a very cool building. I don’t know that I have been in there since I was a student.
Next was another quick walk through the National Gallery. When the kids were young, we used to visit often. They have great visitor packets for kids to make the art even more interesting and the girls did a free class or two on various Saturdays, so it’s more nostalgia. Last bit of nostalgia was seeing the Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Park.
At night, I met up with my friend Karina. As usual, I forgot to get a picture but it’s always fun to catch up.
Filed under: Dublin
The last time Kate and I went to Howth, she was sick and it was bitterly cold. Today was beautiful! The sun shines for us today – as it did for Molly Bloom on 16 years before Bloomsday (June 16, 1904) in Ulysses by James Joyce. In her honor we climbed to Howth Head. Howth is the northern most point of the Dublin Bay; when the girls were little, we lived nearer the southern end of the Dublin Bay. So, Howth always feels like a rare treat. Climbing the hill is steep (by that I mean scary!); we climbed about as far as we thought we could. The journey was made more ominous when we saw a rat tail as big as a pencil until the rubbish bin at the start of the trail. But the views were worth it!
We started the day at the water. The long pier is closed but we walked the short pier. We saw a couple seals. You can long longer feed the seals (as we could when the girls were small) so they aren’t as active but it’s still thrill. And they still have very cute faces with very human expressions.
We came back for the Macnas Halloween parade. Macnas is an amazing theatrical group from Galway. Kate has seen them before and casually knows many of them. They puppetry is breathtaking. The passion in the musicians and dancers was infective. The crowd was huge and I was worried that all I’d be able to see if a sea of camera phones, which happened to some extend but Macnas has found a way to go higher. And it’s a shorter parade that goes farther, which means more people can enjoy it from the front or from the high point nearby. It’s hard not to feel the wonderment of it.
We ended the night at the Vintage Cocktail Club in Templebar. Kate is not a big drinker, but she does like cocktails. I’m mostly a cheap beer gal but I can tell you they make a mean French 75. The bar has a speakeasy feel with 1920s décor and jazz.
Filed under: Dublin
Day Two of Dublin was pretty darned good. We had a great walk all around the city center. My pedometer says 11 miles but I am dealing to technology not fully understanding a trip to a new country so who knows but it has to be close.
We did some charity shop shopping. (I got a new-to-me dress.) We saw some art – first at the Project Arts Centre, where we saw Vague Symptoms Clinic, a very modern art exhibit. It included some subtle movement, so I, of course, loved it. Later in the day, we walked by the Hugh Lane gallery. The gallery was closed, and while I love their collection, that was OK because my favorite work is the walking video by Julian Opie. At one point, they had walking videos scattered all of Dublin, now it’s just the one.
We tracked down Bram Stoker’s temporary residence in Dublin. As you can see from the photos, there’s no question which house was his. Last night we could see fireworks in distance. Today we could see the remnants of the fireworks around the Stoker estate in the North East Inner City.
We were walking back to the South Side of the Liffey and about a block away from the Abbey Theatre. We stopped by with the intention of doing research for possible activities throughout the week. Turns out there was a show by one of my favorite Irish playwrights (Marina Carr) with one of my favorite Irish actors, Eileen Walsh on right then and closing today. It was The Boy, a two-part retelling of Oedipus Rex. If we hustled, we would only be a few minutes late for part one. So we did and I was so glad. It was amazing. It was funny, sinister, and macabre in equal parts. Only Irish sensibilities and dry wit could get a laugh from the horrendously violent and evil deeds of a Greek Tragedy. Not that it was a comedy. It was moving and thought-provoking but the humor took the edge off the brutality. Worth giving up a few hours of Irish sunshine for sure!
The we ambled back to our place to gear up an evening festival. We walked up Grafton Street through Stephen’s Green. And I bought some new Doc Martens.
At night we went to the Dublin by Night Festival. They closed off Dame Street on the south side of the Liffey and Capel Street on the North. Huge crowds, lots of music and other performances. It was fun but a reminder of how many people come out for an event like that.







































































































































































































