Filed under: Rome
After the creepy but cool skeleton art, we went on a hike. We hiked up to Villa Borghese, which is posh park in a posh area – but we also went there the next day so I’ll save the details. Mostly we spent our time making our way back to the apartment from the Pantheon.
One thing about Rome is that there are surprises around every corner. It’s funny to think that the people who live there probably don’t even notice them anymore. (Except that so many cool things means about a billion tourists.) On our walk we went through the Piazza Colona, Piazza Rontonda, Piazza Navona – and purposefully we went to the Pantheon.
The Pantheon kind of rises above a regular neighborhood suddenly. A quick lesson on the Pantheon – it was built in the 120s AD, it’s larger than the dome of the Basilica at the Vatican and it still seems perfect. It’s perfectly round, there’s a perfectly round window cut out of the top and it’s so solid it looks like it will stand forever. It was very impressive in a sturdy kind of way!
Filed under: Rome
On Saturday we went to the Crypt of the Capuchins. It is a small church that is decorated with the bones of Capuchin Friars. They have used recognizable bones (skulls, joints, hip bones) to create mosaics (for lack of a better word) on the walls. They are very ornate – kind of Baroque.
The deal is that in 1631 the friars left their old friary for the new location and the remains of the deceased were transported with them. That’s when they started the “art to die for”. Then they started to do the same with friars as they died and even the bodies of the poor Romans.
They cover the walls of the old chapel, where the living friars would join the dead for mass each day. There is a paper plaque on the final wall that says something like:
Where you are we once were; where we are you someday will be.
Absolutely no pictures were allowed – so I’m hoping to grab one from their web site.
Filed under: Rome
This is one of those times when I should get Patrick to do a post – although it would be a very different story. Saturday afternoon we all headed to a church on a hill in Trastevere. It supposedly holds the remains of Hugh O’Neill, who fled to Spain during the Flight of the Earls.
Unfortunately, while this distance wasn’t necessarily great, the incline was! I should note that our group ages range from 6 to 79. I should also note that Patrick was a little map-challenged and didn’t believe his wife when she wisely spied a shortcut that would have turned a steep windy road into a staircase.
Plus it was about 110 degrees in the shade. Actually that’s not really true. One of the big lessons we’ve learned this week is that shade is really, really good. It was probably only 80 degrees in the shade – but 110 on the hill. I have a picture of us getting cooled down with the local fountain. There are fountains like that everywhere and they are very welcome! We were even filling our water bottles in the fountains. In retrospect that might not have been the smartest move – but I feel like if it were going to make us sick, we’d be sick by now.
Anyways, the good news was that this was the place. Patrick got pretty lucky when he asked at the Irish Pub if anyone knew where Hugh O’Neill was buried – and someone did.
There wasn’t a big plaque or anything – but there was a Red Hand of Ulster coat of arms thing on the church. And the view was pretty spectacular.
Our real reward however was a great meal. We ordered a ton of food at a very busy restaurant in Trastevere. It was the kind of place where they suggested more food and we were glad they did. We had caprese salad, calamari, pizza, risotto, gnocchi, carbonara.
Filed under: Rome
On Friday we went to the Vatican. We started at 8 am. We went to the main church (St Peter’s Basilica), which I have to say is pure opulence. There was a line – but it went pretty quickly. The statues are amazing. Much like the Coliseum, everything is so big, you lose a little perspective. I started talking about the small statues – and then realized that they’re beyond life size – they four or five times life size. Lily thought the back windows were great. I tried to get a good picture – but I was competing with a lot of light.
The entrance to the Sistine Chapel is separate from the Basilica. In fact, you have to walk all around the Basilica to get there. There was a line – but it only took about 30 minutes to get through so that wasn’t too bad.
Everything was so ornate – the first room may have been the most over the top. The ceilings had been painted, although it wasn’t *that* ceiling. Aine loved the first room. Lots of reds, golds and other bold colors. (I took a picture of the ceiling – just mentioning again so that people don’t think it’s “that” ceiling.) We saw a lot of naked statues – big, little, headless, sitting standing and resting.
It’s huge maze of rooms – and naturally we got separated. Patrick and Lily went ahead – the rest of us took the wrong turn at the fork in the hall, thinking that was the route Patrick would take. That meant that Patrick, who would like to see every detail took the shortcut and the rest of us who are more OK with an overview saw everything. And actually everything was pretty cool. It started with Raphael. My favorite was the pictures of a broken Caesar-type statue lying at the feet of a golden cross. Kind of sums up the situation from the Christian perspective. Then there was a ton of modern art, including Francis Bacon. I like the modern stuff so that was good – but Aine and Kate were sort of crashing so we went through quickly.
Finally we came upon “that” ceiling. The room was packed. Apparently Lily and Patrick spent a lot of time there so Lily can do a great imitation of the guards clapping and shouting “no photo!” but don’t worry that didn’t stop me. Although it stopped me from getting a good shot.
We were so dog tired walking home after the Vatican – but we found that Coca Cola Light (for me), Espresso (for Michael) and gelato for the girls can work magic!
Filed under: Rome
After the Coliseum, we went home refreshed a little, picked up Patrick’s mom and decided to try the hop on – hop off bus tour. It was exactly what we needed in terms of jetlag, fatigue and heat. It is hot in Italy, hot and sunny. (And a special note for my mom – no sunburn yet!)
We relaxed on the bus for a while – and hopped off to see the Trevi Fountain. We each threw our coins in the fountain. The Foundation is also spectacular – and the spray from it is a huge treat on a super-hot day. The Fountain looks like it’s coming out of a building. There were tons of people – but with a little patience you can make your way to the fountain or get a seat and kick back for a while.
A: 133 steps Q: How many steps in the Spanish Steps?
The Spanish Steps are just a short distance from the Trevi Fountain. The view from the top is fantastic. Also this is the area where Keats died when he was 25. I’m mentioning this mostly in Patrick’s honor. He found a Keats Museum for us – but (un)fortunately is cost 4 euros in so we missed it. Patrick recited a lot of Keats to us while sitting on the steps. We considered asking him to speak up and putting a hat in front of him for donations.
After the Fountain and the Steps we hopped back on the bus. In fact, we just kicked back and enjoyed the rest of the ride. Again it was the perfect answer to some tried tourists. I suspect each of us nodded off at some point during the trip but that as OK. We also got a nice perspective on Rome. Nothing beats the view from a double-decker bus. They played recorded messages about the areas as we drove through. None of the details spring to mind – but I’m sure my subconscious is much richer.
Filed under: Rome
We are staying at the Campo di Fiori. It is centrally located – but even better there are several artists and tiny shops on our road and at the end of our road, there’s a market every day. It’s fresh fruit, vegetables, tshirts… At night the market clears away and makes room for great outdoor drinking – most of it in the bars. A few BYOB types in the square. Lots of buskers – admittedly I don’t many would make the first cut on Italy’s Got Talent – but fun nonetheless.
Patrick, Michael and I enjoyed a drink and appetizer Wednesday night. The joint was jumping – starting at about 9:00 – and definitely still cooking at midnight when we threw in the towel.
Patrick noted at the brilliance of the urban planning. It does make for a good vibe. There were people of all ages. You could compare it to Temple Bar in Dublin – although Temple Bar has much more a feel of Stag Party or just on leave. Our piazza is fun but not rowdy or sloppy.
Thursday morning we headed down to the Coliseum. The Coliseum was on everyone’s must-see list so we were excited. I was even a little afraid that we had built it up so much that we might be disappointed – we weren’t. In fact at dinner everyone noted it as a favorite. It really is big and imposing and kind of majestic.
In its day is sat 50,000 people. It was built in 72 AD. Who even knew there were 50,000 back then? Most of the floor is missing so it’s easy to see what the basement/lower level looked like – and there’s a great (modern) mural that illustrates what happened back in the day. The lions were kept in cages in the lower floor. The cages moved along a sort of conveyor belt to “the place” where the cages were pulled to the surface like an elevator car or stage trap door. On the field waiting would have been the Christians. Our guidebook calls the Coliseum the NASCAR of antiquity. Funny to think of it that way – but I suppose it is.
So we were able to check out the stadium from two floors. The views out of the stadium were as amazing as the views inside. The columns and pedestals give you a perspective of how large the place is. I tried to get a couple of pictures to help – but even in person the size is so overwhelming you kind of dismiss it.
On the way back we walked by Circus Maximus and the Palatine. The Circus Maximus was actually a larger stadium/sports area. It was built to seat 250,00 for chariots races and public games. Now it’s more like a giant field. The Palatine dates back to 753 BC. It’s where Romulus killed Remus and founded Rome. TO honor the spot later emperors built their palaces here. By walking around the area, we got an idea of how large the footprint of the area is – but it wasn’t until we took the double-decker bus tour in the afternoon that we got an idea of its size. (I’m going to add those pictures here in case that helps. Also – we saw several lizards in the Palatine. Lizards are always a highlight.)
Filed under: Rome
Tuesday morning Grandpa picked us up at 4 am for our flight to Chicago. We had a fun day with the cousins and then that afternoon went back to O’Hare to Rome. We arrived in Rome today at 9:00. We were in our apartment by noon. Our only sad news is that we don’t have Internet access. So I’m going to write up my days as soon as possible and post when I can.
I’m pretty tired today – it might be pictures only. We walked a ton. I won’t even pretend to name anything – except the Tiber and the Vatican.
We’ve promised Aine that we’ll make pigeon stew if she catches one. There are enough markets to keep Lily and Kate happy. So far we’ve learned that Italian food is not necessarily what we’re used to getting at home.
The apartment is nice. We just keep the windows open the whole time. The floor of each room seems to be up or down an inch from the other; so I’m sure to break a toe. We’re very central.
It’s hot – very hot.
The Vespas, cars and pedestrians seem to share the cobble stone roads and piazzas. By that I mean, it will be an act of God if one of us doesn’t get hit. Everything is very bustling and there’s no grass. These may sounds like complaints – but they aren’t. It’s just fun to be someplace with so many differences.
Nearly forgot to mention that it was great to see Patrick’s mom and brother.
Filed under: St Paul
Tomorrow morning we leave for Rome. Last night we got a pre-taste of Italy at Luci Ancora. Luci’s had a wine dinner with two wine makers – St Innocent and Bethel Heights – both out of Oregon. It was fabulous. We’ve been to wine dinners at Luci’s in the past, but this was even better than I remember.
The MO is pretty standard – hear about the wine and food, eat and drink the wine and food, repeat an embarrassing number of times. St Innocent is a popular guest at wine dinners at Luci’s so it’s a little like home week – but for us regulars it’s as much fun to hear about the family who owns the winery as it is to catch up with the family that owns the restaurant. And the new wine maker fit right in – being sure to say hello to each and every table. But ambiance isn’t the highlight; the food and drink are. Here is an annotated menu…
Pre-dinner – Grilled Prawn served with Watermelon, Radish, and Cucumber and garnished with Tomato Chili Oil with Astoria Prosecco and Ginger Scented Apple Juice
– a refreshing start. The shrimp was delicious; the Prosecco, which is always a favorite of mine had that hint of ginger that made it unique.
Bibb lettuce and Arugula served with Pecorino Toscano Cheese and drizzled with Dijon Mustard Vinaigrette with Bethel Heights Gewurztraminer 2010
– another surprisingly light choice, but appreciated more even for its lightness later when the real eating began.
French Chicken prepared two ways, sautéed Breast and Braised Leg served with Borlotti Beans and Demi Glace with St. Innocent “Freedom Hill” 2009 and Bethel Heights 2009 Chardonnays
– First that isn’t a typo starting with this course we got two glasses of wine each round. Score! I heard from the Chef that the chicken was sort of a challenge. Normally chicken isn’t something I order but this was very good – more like turkey and very moist.
Risotto served with Oyster, Crimini, and Portabello Mushrooms and garnished with sautéed Duck Breast with St. Innocent “Vitea Springs” 2009 and St. Innocent “Zenith” 2009 Pinot Noirs. The wines were getting more serious, the flavors were really starting to jump out. The duck was the perfect amount – really more than a garnish, but not a huge amount. The risotto was perfectly cooked.
Grilled Ivory King Salmon seasoned with Smoked Sea Salt and served with Chilled Asparagus Truffle Puree with Bethel Heights Estate 2008 and Casteel Reserve 2007 Pinot Noirs. Salmon and truffle. Do I really have to say more? Two of my favorite things on one plate. SO good that I didn’t even mind the asparagus, which I don’t always love.
Glazed Pork Osso Buco served with Roasted Baby Spring Vegetables with St. Innocent “Justice” 2009 and St. Innocent “Shea” 2009 Pinot Noirs. OK by this stage it was pure gluttony and Patrick was getting generous tastes from my plates – but the pork was a standout.
Dark Savory Housemade Bread topped with Quade de Cavra “Taleggio” Goat Cheese served with Chocolate Cherry Bark with St. Innocent “Freedom Hill” 2008 Pinot Noir. The goal was a savory, not sweet, dessert. But for those of us with a big sweet tooth, the chocolate set off the cheese and cherries.
I tried to remember to take pictures. I didn’t always succeed. And with a couple of courses I may have taken a bite or two before getting the picture.
Filed under: Minnesota
Last weekend the whole family packed up and went to the Raceway Park in Shakopee for NASCAR races. Only we actually went for the destruction night, which I think is more like demolition derby – although I must admit that the nomenclature sort of eludes me. But I can tell you it was good, loud fun.
We were drawn in with an Internet half-off coupon. We ended up going on a rainy cold night – so the events were delayed for a while until they could dry the track. I suspect that the experience is even better when it’s warm and on time. It’s fun to watch the races.
The night started with regular laps. So we each picked our favorite color and cheered. The races got a little more exciting when they held the flag pole race. That’s when they stick a flag pole in the middle of the track. The cars races up to it, then they have to drive around it and continue with their laps. The best part of course is when all of the cars are angling to be in the same place and then some cars are coming out of the turn just as other want to get in. The next race was the figure eight. It starts out much like the regular race but as the pack widens out you see the thrill of the cars have to pass each other at the crossroads in the center. There were some other events – but with the late start that’s what we saw.
Usually the winners drive up to get the trophy on their way off the track. One guy stopped, got out of his truck, ran up the into the stands and gave the trophy to a fan. I half expected the trophy to come with a proposal. Also Speed TV was there. I must admit I have never seen Speed TV – but it’s always exciting to have the TV cameras and interviewer walking around.
The other really great part of the car races is the people watching. A night at Raceway Park is pretty economical. A beer is $3 and they have candy for a quarter – compare that to Target Field! There were two young mothers in front of us with three kids easily under five and a preteen who had to be a sister to one of the moms. These women were clearly out for a night of fun (in a good way) and had decided that bringing the kids was cheaper and easier than a babysitter. Those kids got two bomb-pops each, several rounds of French fries, chicken drummies and two kinds of earplugs. While the moms got grown up treats. Many of the audience members had buckets of beer, which is an old Kemps ice cream bucket full of ice and some beer, like Bud Light.
I’m sure that I haven’t had a Bud Light since the turn of the century, but in the right atmosphere a Bud Light can be pretty darned good. (The girls did not get bomb-pops, but they did get Slow Pokes and KITS candy.)
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