Filed under: Galway
Today I took a walk down to Mutton Island and Salthill, which aren’t really very far from where we are and it’s a walk along the sea almost the whole way. It’s very calming. Yesterday, I saw a proposal on my walk. Today, in the very same spot around noon, I saw someone strip down entirely and so for a swim. Can’t wait to what tomorrow brings!
The girls and I had a lovely lunch and shopping at the charity shop. I’m the proud new owner of some cardigans. And we walked around town. Lots of street art to check out.
Kate and I visited the Galway Arts Center. It’s very modern. Aine and I saw a little Irish music.
Filed under: Galway
Aside from the big flight here and back, today was our heaviest travel lift. We flew out of Edinburgh at 8:15, which meant getting picked up before 6am. The flight was late but ended up we were able to catch a coach from the airport in Dublin to Galway within minutes of leaving the airport door. It’s a three-hour bus ride but it was easy and peaceful. We were the first on the bus and so we kind ruled over everyone. (Really that means Aine and I got to sit in front. Kate chose second row maybe hoping to distance herself.)
We landed in Galway. We are staying at a nice place by the canal, not far from the bay between city center and Salthill. Just perfect. We had an easy day walking down the canal to the bay and on the beach. I saw a successful proposal, which is always fun. And we saw the sights around us.
Galway is a young town. I forgot how young until we went to the pub. But it’s fun. It’s not like Dublin. It’s calmer – even in the height of tourist season. Part of the reason we’re here is that Kate may be moving to Galway this fall for an artist residency. She’s going to check the place out tomorrow. I’m very excited for her.
Filed under: Edinburgh
On our last day, I started the day with a climb up Calton Hill which is home to several monuments and buildings: the National Monument, the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, the old Royal High School, the Robert Burns Monument, the Political Martyrs’ Monument and the City Observatory. The view is spectacular. Everything feels ancient. Not my first time but always a favorite.
Then I met the girls. We saw a few more Fringe shows. We saw a show called Still Life. The actors created scenes from famous works of art. Some worked better than others. I liked the idea. In fact, I love the idea of riffing of famous art for a performance piece, I just might go more for vignettes. The we saw Weathervane. It was exactly what you might expect at a Frine Festival and exactly what you don’t want to see with your mom … or your daughters. Three entirely naked grownups sort of dancing “in a nonsexual way” to soothing music. Not enough sooth in the world to help sugar coat that for a family activity. (Sorry no videos allowed.)
Then we walked around and generally had the best of times, worst of times just like a family vacation is supposed to be. Actually we had a great time but always good to recognize that even families who can have a lot of fun together can get on each other’s last nerve. (I think the girls would agree.)
My new bucket list item is to find a way to be in Edinburgh for all of August.
Filed under: Uncategorized
We tried to see a few Fringe shows today. We saw some earlier but today we were more planful, or at least tried to be today. Kate and I started with an immersive circus not five minutes from the AirBnB in a warmed up ice rink. It was an aerial performer in a night sky half dome. The was an air of shamanism in the performance but most the woman who was the star was so strong and powerful. It was amazing to see her work with the aerial ribbon. The lighting intensified the whole experience.
Then we went into town – or rather I went into town and the girls planned to meet me there I made a stop in the National Gallery to see some art. I saw a little Peter Paul Rubens, Johannes Vermeer and El Greco.
I also stopped in the National Library. I couldn’t get into the reference room without a library card but they had a couple of exhibits. My favorite was all about the library. Every public library should be so good at promotion. There was also a exhibit on the history of AIDS in Scotland. It’s quite impressive.
I also saw some fun street Fringey things.
I met up with Kate and Aine. We got last-minute, free tickets to YUCK Circus, even though it was actually sold out. It was amazing! Five women perform high acrobatics representing vignettes in life as a woman. First, the athleticism was amazing. Second, the take on issues was awesome. The tackle topics like periods without shame or mystery. Third, they were so funny. It was a super fun show.
Next we just got into Hersterectomy, a play about a woman looking to get a hysterectomy for medical reasons. No one seems to care about her pain or understand that she is OK committing to being childfree. It’s a statement on a side of bodily autonomy that doesn’t get discussed much but is as important as any other side of personal autonomy. Medical decisions should be between a patient and the healthcare provider.
And then there was just the festivities of Fringe and Majesty of Edinburgh.
Filed under: Edinburgh
Our modus operandi in Edinburgh is that I walk to town and the girls take a bus. These means I get in extra steps and they can take longer getting ready. (Walked 18 miles yesterday, thanks for asking!) Yesterday, I headed down to the end of the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building because we had big plans to climb Arthur’s Seat. (The Royal Mile starts at the Castle.) Because I had some extra time, I stopped in to see Parliament. It’s a modern building, about 20 years old, that fits in well with the ancient architecture around it. It has an open feel. Guests are welcome. Parliament wasn’t in session, but I got to go in and look around. It feels like there is much more access than in Minnesota. (Not that I don’t love the MN Capitol.) Also – get a glimpse of the books they sell in the bookshop. way to be inclusive and welcoming to all!
The girls met me. Three of us stared the journey up Arthur’s Seat. It is an ancient volcano, in the Holyrood Park and part of the 7 hills around Edinburgh – and it’s a possible location of Camelot, some folks think. Kate really enjoyed climbing the hill back in 2010; in fact I wouldn’t underestimate the impact of that climb on our return trip now. We started near the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building. It’s a mile and a half up; and same down, unless you miss-step. The walk feels very up and down. Kate and I made it to the top! I was proud of us. We were certainly in the minority wearing dresses on the climb and Kate wins an award for wearing heels. The views are spectacular and I think the air is better up there.
We headed to the Fringe after a little break. The girls went to see a few shows. I mostly walked around and visited different pubs and locations. It’s fun to see a city with so much activity. Some day I’m going to find a to be here for the whole month of August.
Filed under: Edinburgh
Yesterday the taxi picked us up at 4am to get to the airport to fly to Edinburgh, or actually that was yesterday’s yesterday – we’re re-jetlagged but it was worth it. Edinburgh is amazing. It is my favorite city and to be here for the Fringe fest has been amazing. We got to the AirBnB about 9am (thank god for early check in!) and all fell apart in one way or another. But by noon we were raring to go. I walked into town and the girls tool the bus. It’s probably easiest to spilt the post into Edinburgh usual awesomeness and Fringe-related fun.
Edinburgh being Edinburgh
Edinburgh is built on seven hills. The castle stands on one and looms over much of the city. It is so easy to see how Harry Potter was written here. The castle looks and feels amazing. And there’s an “upstairs downstairs” feeling to the city, especially near the castle. The downstairs area is built into the hill of the castle. It feels super cool and haunted and timeless. Away from the castle is almost feels like an ivory town sort of situation, but near the castle it is seedier and more palpable.
We walked down the Royal Mile. It’s old and preserved. No murals painted here. So many churches and graveyards. (We saw the grave of Adam Smith.) So much stained glass and in-church tombs, which I love. We stopped in St Gile’s Cathedral, Greyfriars with the memorial to the dog and the Witchcraft Museum. You can see Kate posing with Isobel Cowdie, the queen of Scottish Witches (vintage 1662).
Kate and I saw two Fringe performances. Miles and Dan Just Might Break a World Record Tonight was a fun collection of sketches. It was fast paced and funny. And we saw a preview of several shows at the Three Sisters. We’re going to have to see if the host has a Titanic show in the festival, Aine would love it. The Fringe is amazing. We haven’t planned anything and sadly the one show that caught my eye (I was in a Sitcom with Eden She aka Sue Heck) is sold out for the nights were here. We might see if there’s anything last minute available. Or we might see if there are other performances we’d plan around. Or we’ll keep it to the Free and cheap Fringe shows that you can usually walk in and you walk by. It is fun to see the artists out touting for their own acts. Some folks clearly enjoy that more than others.
Finally the amazing parade we cam across on the way to the bus home. It is a parade from the Tattoo, which is a huge annual celebration of the military.
Filed under: Dublin
Dun Laoghaire is a port town and 15 miles south of Dublin. When we lived near here when the girls were young; we lived closer to Dun Laoghaire to Dublin City Center. So, in many ways, visiting Dun Laoghaire is more like a trip back to my second home that going to Dublin. Aine and I went to walk down the pier. It was a terrible day for a walk down the pier. There was a on-and-off heavy mist and the wind could have set a small dog flying. But that strong wind will clear the cobwebs right out of your brain. I kind of loved it. Then while Aine had a moment of peace I checked out the Maritime Museum. They have an amazing window/light from a lighthouse that is fairly amazing!
We took the DART there, walked the pier and then came home. Initially we had plans to visit other hot spots, such as the People’s Park but we decided to kowtow to the weather. We strolled in the rain and I realized, I could live here again.
At night I took a stroll by myself. I saw some prescient street art and went into Whelan’s for a pint. Now we’re waiting for a 4am uber for the next adventure…
Filed under: Dublin
Today was like a mom dream vacation. Spent the morning with Kate while Aine slept. Spent the afternoon with Aine while Kate met up with a friend. Weather was spectacular until it wasn’t. We all went to the Sinead O’Connor at the Phoenix Park and quickly ended up at a pub with Irish music. Now if only I had my Lily to hit the nightlife with me to hit the late-night bars! We miss her for more than that – but she has things to do in Montreal. I can only download the day in snapshots and not in order – no transitions today.
Sinead O’Connor Memorial turns into Irish Pub Music
We went to Phoenix Park with high expectations for the Sinead O’Connor memorial after 7pm. We weren’t there long. Clearly folks had put some work into it. We saw two poets who were good but we didn’t understand the connection to Sinead, which clearly was at least half our problem but because we remember when Prince died in Minneapolis, we expect the same reception. It’s early days so it may happen and in the meantime the ground level adoration is admirable but we weren’t feeling it. (Also speaks volumes to the messages Sinead tried to relay!) So. two tired girls and I ended up at a bar on the quays playing very loud Irish music but serving food. Loud Irish music was exactly what one girl wanted – apparently. The band played Weela Weela Wayla and both girls were over the moon. Kate went so far to request a song (Ragland Road) in part I think to spite the New Jersey folks who requested Danny Boy. By the time we left it was pouring rain. I offered to call the Uber but we walked. I’m soaking wet typing this – but basking the glow of a good day.
Bog Bodies
Kate and I visited the bog bodies of Ireland; the girls and I have always enjoyed the creepy and cool on our adventures. It’s funny to see how creepy impacts a 20-something versus an 8-year-old, but I still got Kate to compare bog hand to her hand. A bog body is human remains that have mummified in a bog. The remains in Ireland date back to 400 BC to 400 AD – or I here up to 2000 years ago! They are still being found today – well by today I mean 2003, but in the scope of history, that is a blip. Going by the stories, it seems like some people may have fallen into the bogs, while bog dumping was also the last part of a sacrificial murder of some sort. It is amazing to see the detail that is preserved. (Years ago, we went to the Bog of Allen. Another creepy but cool and very messy. It’s the closest thing to quicksand I ever want to experience.
Trinity, Art and Animals
Aine and I had a leisurely vacation day after she tromped all over town yesterday. We walked through Trinity College, a well-worn route to the bus stop back in the day. We tried to sneak into the library, no luck. But we walked through the cricket fields, which brought back memories. We popped out by the National Gallery, which gave us an excuse to go through for a second visit. (We spent a lot of time there when they were kids.) Next we went to the “dead animal zoon” aka Natural History Museum. A highlight for me was the basking shark. I have been obsessed with basking sharks since I saw a TEDx talk about them in 2010.
Buskers and Street Art
We spent a lot of time walking today. Saw some super fun street art, including a mural of Sinead O’Connor being painted. Very touching.
Finally, we saw some great busking on Grafton Street. Just another day in Dublin.
Filed under: Dublin
It was a leisurely day today. Aine and I took a long walk-through town. We stopped in Project Art Centre, which has long been one of my favorites, small experimental art. We saw Culchie Boy, I Love You by Kian Benson Bailes. It’s interesting with sort of an animal-predatory undercurrent with Irish roots.
We walked down the Liffey toward the bay. We stopped in at St Mary’s and found some very modern and imploring ways to get donations.
Then we walked and talked and saw great street art, felt the wind in our faces, got rained on intermittently. We stopped at the Grand Canal Docks.
Poor Aine walked so much more than she wanted to – and she was a great sport. But it was really nice to spend time together. At night I met up with an old friend Karina. It’s always fun to catch up with my friend who knows more about books than anyone I’ve ever known. I tried Korean food for the first time, which I really liked and we enjoyed a few pints. Kate went to Dun Laoghaire on her own, which was great given she’ll soon be living in Ireland. And both Kate and Aine met with their Uncle Fearghal for dinner. A good time was had by all.
Filed under: Dublin
Everyday a new adventure! I’ll lead with the headline for a change and say our big event today was a memorial for Sinead O’Connor. The hosts (ROSA Socialist Feminist Movement) did a nice job lifting up the issues that were important to Sinead O’Connor – autonomy and respect for people and disdain who hold back those rights. (I wrote more about it for my music blog – including a full video of the singalong.) For family purposes, part of the thrill was the presence of local media. Lots of photos taken, especially of Kate who was early, and lots of questions for all of us. It was a moving event. It ended in a singalong to Nothing Compares 2 U, which of course reminded us the days after Prince’s death. Very moving.
Before that, the girls and I went our separate ways for a while. I started off for the Dublin Castle and found the Ireland Glass Biennale 2023, an exhibition of work from some of the world’s most innovative glass artists, designers and craft practitioners. It was freaking amazing. Sadhbh Mowlds did an amazing sculpture of a woman shaving her legs in front of the mirror. It was scarily realistic in an uncanny valley way. Pearla Segovia did a similarly realist sculpture of two women looking at each other with no faces. And my cutest favorite my Krista Israel. Even without a face, it seems so cheerful.
I did a walk through Trinity College just to make sure that my favorite place of happy memory really closed. Sad to report that the Science Gallery is cleaned out. But I did see a lot of awesome street art on my walk.
Then I decided to listen to church bells from St Patrick’s, Christchurch and St Audoen’s, which led to a fantastic new rabbit hole. First, many years ago, I lived behind the church. It’s an old area – we didn’t have a toilet in the house. We had a modern toilet in a room outside the backdoor. Turns out St Audoen’s was a happening place in medieval times; it was where papal bulls were pronounced and public penances carried out. Also, they have amazing bells, 6 from 1423 that were renovated in the 1980s. Today they rang a special sound to celebrate their 600th anniversary and to remember Sinead O’Connor. It’s free and absolutely worth a visit if you’re in the area.
Post memorial, the girls and I checked out Christchurch, which is just a stone’s throw from St Audoen’s. It is almost 1000 years old and has also served as hub for the community, albeit the Protestant community. The building is amazing but it’s the catacombs that we came for. It used to be like a public square where vendors would sell their wares and life would happen … such as putting people in the stockade. We heard all about it from a (recording of) 90 year old Catholic who talked about sneaking into the church only to get a firsthand demonstration of the stockage from a church leader. Very funny in retrospect and a story that would get someone in serious trouble today! Another highlight is the petrified cat and rat that were found in the organ pipes. Assumption was that they were in a chase, jumped in and got stuck.
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