Filed under: Dublin
Kate made it home as scheduled. We were happy and a little surprised. She had a ticket but not a seat assignment. Aine and I got on a plane. Sat on it for two hours and then deplaned. It started with a light that wouldn’t go out. So, they rebooted the plane. For IT Group fans – yes, they tried turning it off and on again! The we got some line about a problem with a passenger. Then we alit.
For a few hours we sat in the airport getting one story or another until they finally cancelled the flight. After seven hours in the airport, they sent us to a hotel in the shadow of the airport. I’ve always thought that would be a lucky thing – so extend your vacation by a day. But Aine was inconsolable. She wants to be home with her friends before the leave for college. And being out by the airport is not great.
A nod to the Maldron, one of four hotels that got overflow guests for the night. We were surly and tired. They were very kind. There’s a shuttle to the airport, an American-style buffet breakfast (with Irish croissants and bacon!) and a pub. I might not spend my whole time in Dublin so out of town but that’s on a short-list of last night stops.
I gave extra euros, the toothpaste and adapter to Kate. We were ill equipped. Plus I hate to fly so emotionally spent. I did walk about 6 miles around the hotel over our stay, which means I know the ins and outs of the Dublin airport. In fact, one more day and I might be visiting the airport security about my new hobby.
As I write this we are waiting for the 4pm flight out of Dublin. (Our original flight was 9am yesterday.) It’s been pushed to 5pm and I heard the 9am flight earlier today was cancelled. I’m not feeling good. I haven’t mentioned the airlines – but if any else goes wrong. I will. Update the flight home from Chicago was 40 minutes late.
Filed under: Dublin
We have had an amazing time and we’re ready to go home. None of us likes to fly so we’re tucked into a hotel near the airport. There’s a shuttle to the airport and that will calm our nerves but that leaves us in a limbo of sorts for our last day.
I decided to walk into town, which was quite a hall. I stopped by the National Botanic Garden and Glasnevin Cemetery. Then headed in to soak up the last of the city and get to nearly 13 miles for the day. I stopped by the art gallery at Trinity College to see the art of Liz Magor. She reuses objects to create sculptures. Some of fuzzy and cute; some seem to be oddly placed taxidermized animals.
The girls are visiting with their friend Cait. Keep us and our travels in your thoughts tomorrow. We hope to see you soon!
Filed under: Dublin
Sometimes our adventures take us to someplace very new; sometimes we visit the things we knew growing up. Today we hiked back to Cabinteely, where the girls Irish Grandma live and where we lived for a year here, or six months there. We started at Cabinteely Park, which is the gardens of the old manor of the area. (Which also in its time was the keeper of the hopper for the Irish Sweepstakes numbers!) It’s gorgeous. The girls couldn’t resist at least one toe dip int their old playground.
We went through the village past the post office, the library, several restaurants, their grandma’s house, the rugby park across the street and their old school. The views of the Wicklow and Dublin mountains on a day as clear (sometimes clear) as today are amazing. Due to a shoe malfunction, we even got to check out the Tesco where we used to grocery shop.
The we trekked to Killiney Hill. It’s a climb we used to do often and somehow we accidentally took the easy way up, which makes me wonder why we never took the easy way when they were 3-8 years old! The views are spectacular. The air feels fresher. And it’s a place so familiar to the girls that it feels sacred.
Then we went the other way down to the sea. The sun was out, the view was amazing, the smell was oceany. The girls stepped into the sea barefoot. Aine put her shoes to close to the water – and the sea swept one shoe away. Luckily after a long few minutes, she found it 10 feet down the shore in the rocks. Very funny!
Filed under: Dublin
Before we left Galway, I did a quick last walk around town. I saw Lynch’s Castle and maybe Lynch’s Window. It wasn’t all that well marked. All done in honor of my sister Katie Lynch and her crew. It was a heavily misty day so a nice day to be heading out.
Three hours on the coach, and we were back in Dublin. We’re staying in Rathmines this time around. It’s closer to where I lived when I was in graduate school, but not an area I know well. It’s fun to get little chances to know new neighborhoods. What I do love is the Georgian doors – that’s something I always associate with Dublin. So, I took some snaps of doors and a few other things I found on my long walk around town.
I also walked by the first place I ever stayed in Ireland – the Inn on the Liffey. It looked nearly as bad back in the day. The short story is that I came for the weekend (living in London) with my friend Stacy.
I also found a 4-leaf clover down by the Grand Canal. I’m pretty lucky about finding them – or rather they find me. I was walking along, looked down and there it was. I also found the state of Patrick Kavanaugh and a swan.
Finally, I went to go see Girl on an Altar by Marina Carr at The Abbey. It starred Eileen Walsh, who I like very much from her different TV appearances. And I remember reading Marina Carr’s work in school; she wrote pretty experimental stuff back then if I’m remembering correctly. Girl on the Altar was a retelling of the story of Agamenon and Clytemnestra of sorts. It was also a statement on the patriarchy’s disregard for women and children. It was interesting to see how Agamenon and Clytemnestra were so well matched, both very powerful, until Agamenon does something unforgivably horrible, stupid and in honor of his own pride – although he claimed it was in honor of his people. It was a dark look at gender from the very personal scope as well as in society. Loved it!
Filed under: Galway
Today I took a walk down to Mutton Island and Salthill, which aren’t really very far from where we are and it’s a walk along the sea almost the whole way. It’s very calming. Yesterday, I saw a proposal on my walk. Today, in the very same spot around noon, I saw someone strip down entirely and so for a swim. Can’t wait to what tomorrow brings!
The girls and I had a lovely lunch and shopping at the charity shop. I’m the proud new owner of some cardigans. And we walked around town. Lots of street art to check out.
Kate and I visited the Galway Arts Center. It’s very modern. Aine and I saw a little Irish music.
Filed under: Galway
Aside from the big flight here and back, today was our heaviest travel lift. We flew out of Edinburgh at 8:15, which meant getting picked up before 6am. The flight was late but ended up we were able to catch a coach from the airport in Dublin to Galway within minutes of leaving the airport door. It’s a three-hour bus ride but it was easy and peaceful. We were the first on the bus and so we kind ruled over everyone. (Really that means Aine and I got to sit in front. Kate chose second row maybe hoping to distance herself.)
We landed in Galway. We are staying at a nice place by the canal, not far from the bay between city center and Salthill. Just perfect. We had an easy day walking down the canal to the bay and on the beach. I saw a successful proposal, which is always fun. And we saw the sights around us.
Galway is a young town. I forgot how young until we went to the pub. But it’s fun. It’s not like Dublin. It’s calmer – even in the height of tourist season. Part of the reason we’re here is that Kate may be moving to Galway this fall for an artist residency. She’s going to check the place out tomorrow. I’m very excited for her.
Filed under: Edinburgh
On our last day, I started the day with a climb up Calton Hill which is home to several monuments and buildings: the National Monument, the Nelson Monument, the Dugald Stewart Monument, the old Royal High School, the Robert Burns Monument, the Political Martyrs’ Monument and the City Observatory. The view is spectacular. Everything feels ancient. Not my first time but always a favorite.
Then I met the girls. We saw a few more Fringe shows. We saw a show called Still Life. The actors created scenes from famous works of art. Some worked better than others. I liked the idea. In fact, I love the idea of riffing of famous art for a performance piece, I just might go more for vignettes. The we saw Weathervane. It was exactly what you might expect at a Frine Festival and exactly what you don’t want to see with your mom … or your daughters. Three entirely naked grownups sort of dancing “in a nonsexual way” to soothing music. Not enough sooth in the world to help sugar coat that for a family activity. (Sorry no videos allowed.)
Then we walked around and generally had the best of times, worst of times just like a family vacation is supposed to be. Actually we had a great time but always good to recognize that even families who can have a lot of fun together can get on each other’s last nerve. (I think the girls would agree.)
My new bucket list item is to find a way to be in Edinburgh for all of August.
Filed under: Uncategorized
We tried to see a few Fringe shows today. We saw some earlier but today we were more planful, or at least tried to be today. Kate and I started with an immersive circus not five minutes from the AirBnB in a warmed up ice rink. It was an aerial performer in a night sky half dome. The was an air of shamanism in the performance but most the woman who was the star was so strong and powerful. It was amazing to see her work with the aerial ribbon. The lighting intensified the whole experience.
Then we went into town – or rather I went into town and the girls planned to meet me there I made a stop in the National Gallery to see some art. I saw a little Peter Paul Rubens, Johannes Vermeer and El Greco.
I also stopped in the National Library. I couldn’t get into the reference room without a library card but they had a couple of exhibits. My favorite was all about the library. Every public library should be so good at promotion. There was also a exhibit on the history of AIDS in Scotland. It’s quite impressive.
I also saw some fun street Fringey things.
I met up with Kate and Aine. We got last-minute, free tickets to YUCK Circus, even though it was actually sold out. It was amazing! Five women perform high acrobatics representing vignettes in life as a woman. First, the athleticism was amazing. Second, the take on issues was awesome. The tackle topics like periods without shame or mystery. Third, they were so funny. It was a super fun show.
Next we just got into Hersterectomy, a play about a woman looking to get a hysterectomy for medical reasons. No one seems to care about her pain or understand that she is OK committing to being childfree. It’s a statement on a side of bodily autonomy that doesn’t get discussed much but is as important as any other side of personal autonomy. Medical decisions should be between a patient and the healthcare provider.
And then there was just the festivities of Fringe and Majesty of Edinburgh.
Filed under: Edinburgh
Our modus operandi in Edinburgh is that I walk to town and the girls take a bus. These means I get in extra steps and they can take longer getting ready. (Walked 18 miles yesterday, thanks for asking!) Yesterday, I headed down to the end of the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building because we had big plans to climb Arthur’s Seat. (The Royal Mile starts at the Castle.) Because I had some extra time, I stopped in to see Parliament. It’s a modern building, about 20 years old, that fits in well with the ancient architecture around it. It has an open feel. Guests are welcome. Parliament wasn’t in session, but I got to go in and look around. It feels like there is much more access than in Minnesota. (Not that I don’t love the MN Capitol.) Also – get a glimpse of the books they sell in the bookshop. way to be inclusive and welcoming to all!
The girls met me. Three of us stared the journey up Arthur’s Seat. It is an ancient volcano, in the Holyrood Park and part of the 7 hills around Edinburgh – and it’s a possible location of Camelot, some folks think. Kate really enjoyed climbing the hill back in 2010; in fact I wouldn’t underestimate the impact of that climb on our return trip now. We started near the Palace of Holyrood and Scottish Parliament building. It’s a mile and a half up; and same down, unless you miss-step. The walk feels very up and down. Kate and I made it to the top! I was proud of us. We were certainly in the minority wearing dresses on the climb and Kate wins an award for wearing heels. The views are spectacular and I think the air is better up there.
We headed to the Fringe after a little break. The girls went to see a few shows. I mostly walked around and visited different pubs and locations. It’s fun to see a city with so much activity. Some day I’m going to find a to be here for the whole month of August.
Filed under: Edinburgh
Yesterday the taxi picked us up at 4am to get to the airport to fly to Edinburgh, or actually that was yesterday’s yesterday – we’re re-jetlagged but it was worth it. Edinburgh is amazing. It is my favorite city and to be here for the Fringe fest has been amazing. We got to the AirBnB about 9am (thank god for early check in!) and all fell apart in one way or another. But by noon we were raring to go. I walked into town and the girls tool the bus. It’s probably easiest to spilt the post into Edinburgh usual awesomeness and Fringe-related fun.
Edinburgh being Edinburgh
Edinburgh is built on seven hills. The castle stands on one and looms over much of the city. It is so easy to see how Harry Potter was written here. The castle looks and feels amazing. And there’s an “upstairs downstairs” feeling to the city, especially near the castle. The downstairs area is built into the hill of the castle. It feels super cool and haunted and timeless. Away from the castle is almost feels like an ivory town sort of situation, but near the castle it is seedier and more palpable.
We walked down the Royal Mile. It’s old and preserved. No murals painted here. So many churches and graveyards. (We saw the grave of Adam Smith.) So much stained glass and in-church tombs, which I love. We stopped in St Gile’s Cathedral, Greyfriars with the memorial to the dog and the Witchcraft Museum. You can see Kate posing with Isobel Cowdie, the queen of Scottish Witches (vintage 1662).
Kate and I saw two Fringe performances. Miles and Dan Just Might Break a World Record Tonight was a fun collection of sketches. It was fast paced and funny. And we saw a preview of several shows at the Three Sisters. We’re going to have to see if the host has a Titanic show in the festival, Aine would love it. The Fringe is amazing. We haven’t planned anything and sadly the one show that caught my eye (I was in a Sitcom with Eden She aka Sue Heck) is sold out for the nights were here. We might see if there’s anything last minute available. Or we might see if there are other performances we’d plan around. Or we’ll keep it to the Free and cheap Fringe shows that you can usually walk in and you walk by. It is fun to see the artists out touting for their own acts. Some folks clearly enjoy that more than others.
Finally the amazing parade we cam across on the way to the bus home. It is a parade from the Tattoo, which is a huge annual celebration of the military.














































































































































