We brought the good weather with us. (Well, me I guess.) It’s been torrential rain for weeks but today was gorgeous. But that I mean it was sunny half the time, lots of cloud and rained (gently) at least 5 minutes every hour but that’s all we needed. I started off walking to Kate’s place. She has a room and studio space at an artists’ residence. It is in idyllic setting. There are cows in the back, chickens to one side and you can see a derelict castle a short distance away. Kate told me that often the rainbows seem to end in their back garden.
Our original plan for the day was to rent a car and drive to nearby sights. I said I’d pay if Kate drove. Unfortunately, we learned that you need to be 25 to be an insured driver in a rental car. So, we had to go to plan b. (In the years I lived here I never once drove. I hate driving at home, can’t imagine it’s more fun here.) We ended up taking a taxi out to Salthill, a beachside town just outside the Galway town. We could see a rain most of the hour or more we were walking. It is a gorgeous area. We also saw a fair number of swimmers – nutty as that seems.
Then we had a little break before we had an amazing dinner at Ruibin. I had chicken liver pate, Kate had something vegan that she really liked and we both had cocktails. It is a lovely place; we’d been there before.
Then we head out to see some Irish music. You’d be amazing how many pubs there are to choose from in Galway. Kate seems pretty well-versed on the topic. So, I was in good hands. We saw some impressive music – with background of sports cheering and discussions.
Filed under: Galway
The first step is the hardest is never truer than the start of an overseas vacation but my New Year’s resolution is to travel more in 2024. (It even rhymes.) And why not start with a visit to Kate in Galway. I left Monday (Jan 1) at 9pm, traveled and now it’s 5am on Wednesday and I’m jetlagged.
The travel was fine. I flew to Amsterdam, and had three hours to wait for my next flight, so I got a little walk in around the airport. The highlight was seeing the Schiphol Clock, it’s giant clock above a main terminal and it looks like a man is standing in this giant airport clock, painting the hands in real time. I feel lucky I even noticed it. According to Atlas Obscura, the painter is actually a 12-hour-long recording, that gives a convincing illusion that a human is standing inside the translucent clock, busy at work as the hands go around. The artists, Maarten Baas, is a well-known Dutch artist and designer that has a series of similar live clock recordings.
I more intentionally sought out Rijksmuseum Schiphol, which seems to be a sample plate of a larger museum in town. A few amazing “Dutch master” sort of paintings. I noticed a big trend in painting women selling fish.
I finally caught the flight to Dublin. I hightailed it to the coaches and got an express bus to Galway. I was feeling very lucky since it did sell out. It was dark and rainy but still nice to be in Ireland. Kate met me at the Galway station with a Diet Coke and croissant in hand. Two of my favorite things in Ireland. What a thoughtful kid. We taxied to the Maldron hotel, which happens to be where she works. Let’s just say, I have a very nice room.
We headed to the city center. It was damp, but not raining. (Very important distinction.) We had a nice dinner – three cheers for seafood chowder -then walked around and checked out a few pubs. There was live music in many of the pubs. Often it’s a choice of tradition or cover music. We went with traditional. There was amazing musicians. The key is finding an intimate place that still has good seating for us.
We capped off the night at a heavy metal/rock pub. See if you can figure out all of the featured artists on the mural. (One mural is on the ceiling, which made it harder to capture.) More adventures today!
Filed under: Chicago
“The biggest enemy of life is stupidity.” I learned that today from Anita Lasker-Wallfisch, a hologram of a Holocaust survivor at the Illinois Holocaust Museum today. Anita was 18 when she was sent to the Auschwitz concentration camp. Her family had tried to escape before the Nazi invasion several times, unsuccessfully. The last time, she and her sister were arrested, sent to prison and eventually to Auschwitz. She survived because she was a cellist and, as she made a point of saying several times, because she was lucky. In this case, she was lucky they were starting an orchestra, she was lucky someone asked if she played, she was lucky they remembered the answer. We heard her story and then, through the magic of technology, were able to ask the hologram-of-her various questions. I recorded one answer because it speaks to how music literally saved her.
I have talked to so many musicians who feel their music is frivolous in bad times. (And I think it doesn’t take blurred vision to see parallels to persecution of Jews and others today.) But music transcends. Also, music is a way to tell a story that can be more palatable than other methods. Storytelling irradicates stupidity. Or at least it helps. Before the presentation, the docent encouraged us to take pictures and videos to share with the world. I wish I could share the whole museum! (Their website does a good job!)
The description of the holocaust is like a test case of how to do propaganda and break down community. Only by learning about how this has been done before can we recognize it happening again and one of the credos we should all stand up is … never again.
Also at the museum was an exhibit on delis – I’ll have what she’s having. It seems weird to end such a series post (or visit) with something lighthearted but it speaks to the resilience of the survivors and makes it easier to want to share the whole story. Anita told her story with hints of humor; it makes it easier to listen and hear. I’ll just share pictures here; in the case of delis that’s enough to help us all connect to the story. (I’m going to include some screenshots of their super smart exhibits on how you can help make people smarter based on your skillset to be upstanders, not bystanders.)
Filed under: Illinois
Dad was heading to Chicago to see friends. Very last minute I decided to go too. Not to see sick friends but to see my sister Katie and be the ultimate tourist downtown Chicago for a gorgeous afternoon of sun and 70 degrees. It was so much fun. The Art Institute was closed, which while sad made me do different fun things. I took the train downtown, walked around to soak up some downtown ambiance and then headed to at least say hello to the Art Institute lions and Millennial Park. Sadly even the Bean was under repair but I got to the fountain spit and then headed to Navy Pier.
First walking from Millennial Park to Navy Pier is probably the most expensive real estate in the Midwest. Whoa. Lots of private parks and chauffeurs (and not mom-chauffeurs either!). I hadn’t been to Navy Pier or years. There were people around but it wasn’t busy. The wind is exactly what you expect from the windy city but the views are spectacular and the air feels fresh. I stopped in to see The State of Sound highlight Chicago musicians. It’s a free, quick fun stop. I saw some folks I expected to see like Nat King Cole, John Prine, Louis Armstrong and Jeff Tweedy. I saw one of my lost favorites, Naked Raygun. I saw someone I watched play over the weekend -Shemekia Copeland.
Then Katie finished work and we met at the Museum of Contemporary Art. (More amazing addresses enroute!) There was a farmer’s market outside of the gallery – bonus for a Tuesday. So we got a picnic lunch and ate on the museum patio. We saw a few exhibits but the most striking to us was Public Enemy by Gary Simmons. He has been using art to call out racism and classicism especially in popular culture and everyday life in American since the 1980s. His most famous works are smudged chalk drawing that capture images from popular media. (Apparently one of his first studios had a large chalkboard, which goes to show you the power of happy accident.) The images are recognizable but ghostly in the smudge. He recreates the works in the studio – so that when the show closes, the MCA will just paint over it and the message will remain hidden in the walls.
Also he uses regalia without people to represent situations or conditions. He had a piece where tennis shoes (Puma, Nike, Adidas) were dipped in gold and places in front of a police witness lineup wall. The message is clear. Even without people in the shoes, we are trained to have a certain view. There’s another wall with tall, narrow, white chalkboards hung up furnished with white chalked places inches in front of a row of old school wooden desks representing the white washing of education. Finally, on the opposite was a bare bones school closet with several size 6x (think kindergartener) Ku Klux Klan costumes. The MCA always makes me think.
We stopped by my favorite consignment shop in Evanston on the way home. (Got new shoes.) And them Katie, Dad, Dan and I went to our favorite D&J Bistro in Lake Zurich for an amazing French meal. The folks there are so good and friendly. The food is amazing and I never need to eat again.
Now 12 hours after leaving the restaurant, Dad and I are halfway home to St Paul!
Filed under: St Paul
We had another great day at the Fair. We might have another one on Monday and, if so, I’ll share more pictures. Today it was Dad, Katie, Uncle Dan, Bridie and her new Freshman roommate, Ava. Also, we made an unexpected friend named Meg.
We loosely followed the scavenger hunt, which is pretty usual. We saw the biggest boar and the fancy new Oink Booth. We ate donuts, bacon, cheese curds, pork chops, French fries and ice cream. We saw the longest lines ever for pickle pizza. Yuck! We saw Mae Simpson play at the KARE 11 Barn and some dancers in front of the Education Building. I chatted with Senator Pappas, who has done great work for ERA MN (and other things).
We checked out the butter queens and saw a few in the flesh. Learned about a few fun events, like the NAMI walk at Minnehaha Falls and Crosby Park After Dark. We judged others and were applauded for it. Finally, we met our friend Meg. She was in line in the Education Building to get a calendar with a picture of her family, but her family never came or at least didn’t come in time, so we offered to fill in. Best picture ever!
It’s time for the annual Treacy family scavenger hunt. Bridie (my niece) is starting at the University of Minnesota so we’re making an old school trip to the fair to see how far we get on the hunt. I thought I’d share for folks who are looking to combine festival eating with a meaningless competition. I’ll be posting pictures after we participate.
Get a group picture calendar at the Education Building – a point for each participant in the photo.- Find a seedy rendition of Barbie.
- Pose with a butter princess sculpture.
- Eat a Fair favorite: cheese curds, Sweet Martha’s, Tom Thumb donuts, corn on the cob, corndog or fries. (Point per treat)
- Get a team to go down the giant slide – point per person going at once (or once-ish).
- See a band; take a video. (Find the free music calendar.)
- Catch a live birth at the CHS Miracle of Birth Center.
- Get a picture with a famous person – 1 point per famous person. (Candidates count.)
- Eat something new – 1 point per treat. (See the new food list.)
- Get a bird’s eye view from the Sky Ride
- Kiss a prize-winning animal or at least get in kissing distance.
- Get a picture of Debbie Filla’s bench. (Think poultry barn.)
- Pose in front of the U of M “M”. (Near KARE 11 Health fair.)
- Get as many free school supplies as possible at the Education building.
- Get a judgey photo in the Education Building
Filed under: Dublin
Kate made it home as scheduled. We were happy and a little surprised. She had a ticket but not a seat assignment. Aine and I got on a plane. Sat on it for two hours and then deplaned. It started with a light that wouldn’t go out. So, they rebooted the plane. For IT Group fans – yes, they tried turning it off and on again! The we got some line about a problem with a passenger. Then we alit.
For a few hours we sat in the airport getting one story or another until they finally cancelled the flight. After seven hours in the airport, they sent us to a hotel in the shadow of the airport. I’ve always thought that would be a lucky thing – so extend your vacation by a day. But Aine was inconsolable. She wants to be home with her friends before the leave for college. And being out by the airport is not great.
A nod to the Maldron, one of four hotels that got overflow guests for the night. We were surly and tired. They were very kind. There’s a shuttle to the airport, an American-style buffet breakfast (with Irish croissants and bacon!) and a pub. I might not spend my whole time in Dublin so out of town but that’s on a short-list of last night stops.
I gave extra euros, the toothpaste and adapter to Kate. We were ill equipped. Plus I hate to fly so emotionally spent. I did walk about 6 miles around the hotel over our stay, which means I know the ins and outs of the Dublin airport. In fact, one more day and I might be visiting the airport security about my new hobby.
As I write this we are waiting for the 4pm flight out of Dublin. (Our original flight was 9am yesterday.) It’s been pushed to 5pm and I heard the 9am flight earlier today was cancelled. I’m not feeling good. I haven’t mentioned the airlines – but if any else goes wrong. I will. Update the flight home from Chicago was 40 minutes late.
Filed under: Dublin
We have had an amazing time and we’re ready to go home. None of us likes to fly so we’re tucked into a hotel near the airport. There’s a shuttle to the airport and that will calm our nerves but that leaves us in a limbo of sorts for our last day.
I decided to walk into town, which was quite a hall. I stopped by the National Botanic Garden and Glasnevin Cemetery. Then headed in to soak up the last of the city and get to nearly 13 miles for the day. I stopped by the art gallery at Trinity College to see the art of Liz Magor. She reuses objects to create sculptures. Some of fuzzy and cute; some seem to be oddly placed taxidermized animals.
The girls are visiting with their friend Cait. Keep us and our travels in your thoughts tomorrow. We hope to see you soon!
Filed under: Dublin
Sometimes our adventures take us to someplace very new; sometimes we visit the things we knew growing up. Today we hiked back to Cabinteely, where the girls Irish Grandma live and where we lived for a year here, or six months there. We started at Cabinteely Park, which is the gardens of the old manor of the area. (Which also in its time was the keeper of the hopper for the Irish Sweepstakes numbers!) It’s gorgeous. The girls couldn’t resist at least one toe dip int their old playground.
We went through the village past the post office, the library, several restaurants, their grandma’s house, the rugby park across the street and their old school. The views of the Wicklow and Dublin mountains on a day as clear (sometimes clear) as today are amazing. Due to a shoe malfunction, we even got to check out the Tesco where we used to grocery shop.
The we trekked to Killiney Hill. It’s a climb we used to do often and somehow we accidentally took the easy way up, which makes me wonder why we never took the easy way when they were 3-8 years old! The views are spectacular. The air feels fresher. And it’s a place so familiar to the girls that it feels sacred.
Then we went the other way down to the sea. The sun was out, the view was amazing, the smell was oceany. The girls stepped into the sea barefoot. Aine put her shoes to close to the water – and the sea swept one shoe away. Luckily after a long few minutes, she found it 10 feet down the shore in the rocks. Very funny!
Filed under: Dublin
Before we left Galway, I did a quick last walk around town. I saw Lynch’s Castle and maybe Lynch’s Window. It wasn’t all that well marked. All done in honor of my sister Katie Lynch and her crew. It was a heavily misty day so a nice day to be heading out.
Three hours on the coach, and we were back in Dublin. We’re staying in Rathmines this time around. It’s closer to where I lived when I was in graduate school, but not an area I know well. It’s fun to get little chances to know new neighborhoods. What I do love is the Georgian doors – that’s something I always associate with Dublin. So, I took some snaps of doors and a few other things I found on my long walk around town.
I also walked by the first place I ever stayed in Ireland – the Inn on the Liffey. It looked nearly as bad back in the day. The short story is that I came for the weekend (living in London) with my friend Stacy.
I also found a 4-leaf clover down by the Grand Canal. I’m pretty lucky about finding them – or rather they find me. I was walking along, looked down and there it was. I also found the state of Patrick Kavanaugh and a swan.
Finally, I went to go see Girl on an Altar by Marina Carr at The Abbey. It starred Eileen Walsh, who I like very much from her different TV appearances. And I remember reading Marina Carr’s work in school; she wrote pretty experimental stuff back then if I’m remembering correctly. Girl on the Altar was a retelling of the story of Agamenon and Clytemnestra of sorts. It was also a statement on the patriarchy’s disregard for women and children. It was interesting to see how Agamenon and Clytemnestra were so well matched, both very powerful, until Agamenon does something unforgivably horrible, stupid and in honor of his own pride – although he claimed it was in honor of his people. It was a dark look at gender from the very personal scope as well as in society. Loved it!
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